Facing the devil: Exploring hiking in the Algarve

I’d walked every beach, explored all the caves, and visited many quaint inland towns that dot the region. So, imagine my surprise when I discovered there was still an entirely different Algarve waiting for me, one hidden in the hills.

Like many, I’d always thought of the Algarve as a destination for sun, sea, and seafood, not hiking boots. But after living in the UK for a while, I’d recently taken up some walking trails and had begun to wonder what the Algarve has to offer. This curiosity is what led me to Alferce, near Monchique, to which I then came face to face with the Devil…Gorge. Also known as the Barranco do Demo, its name is no surprise once you find out that the walking trail is made up of over 500 wooden stairs and a suspension bridge that looks like something straight out of The Hobbit.

Built in 2023, the gorge allows walkers to cross it through a 1.25-mile walkway built in, making it not only exceptional for a way to exercise but also a very scenic, picture-worthy route. The trail begins near the cemetery in Alferce with a gentle downhill stretch before you get to those devilish steps. While the stairs can at times feel endless, the walk is certainly manageable. I spotted both children and older walkers tackling it, and the full walk only takes around an hour. For those who have more stamina than I do (and a cooler day than the 35 degrees heat I endured), the walkway links to a longer route that connects the village of Alferce to the ruins of Castelo de Alferce, an Islamic fortress offering sweeping views of the Serra de Monchique.

Before visiting, I had read online that those who took the route in spring were also able to see a mountain stream that flows beneath the suspension bridge - a touch that, I imagine, makes the experience feel straight out of an adventure film. But seeing as I went in September, the riverbed and surrounding areas were a lot drier, and yet, there was still a certain feeling of being cradled in the folds of the mountains, far from the crowded beaches outland.

The redevelopment of Barranco do Demo has transformed it into a safe, graded trail with accessible boardwalks. It’s a perfect escape for anyone seeking a way to get their steps in, whilst also exploring a quieter side of the Algarve. And when you’ve conquered the Devil’s Gorge, reward yourself as I did: with a hearty plate of Bacalhau à Brás in a café in Alferce. After all those stairs, you’ll have earned it.