Nothing quite prepared me for the epic scale of this place. As a first-time visitor, the most bewildering thing isn't the maddening traffic or the sheer chaos of it all. It isn't even the fact that I can have breakfast in Europe and lunch in Asia without so much as changing my socks. No, for me, it’s the blend of history and incredible modernity that's all wrapped up into one ginormous mega-city of well over 15 million souls - most of whom are trying to sell me something.

History

No matter where I look, millions of people have been before. Greeks. Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans - the job lot. Not to mention the traders, crusaders, Sultans and assorted Emperors. Countless merchants and invaders came before millions of modern Turks inherited what must surely be among the most extraordinary urban landscapes on Earth?

I learned (parrot fashion, of course) that the city was originally Byzantion, founded by Greek settlers in the 7th century BC. Emperor Constantine then transformed it into his "New Rome" in AD330, and for more than a thousand years it became Constantinople, the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. The Ottoman conquest came in 1453.

So, what about the name Istanbul? Although the city had been called Istanbul in everyday language for centuries, the Republic of Turkey formally adopted Istanbul as the official name in 1930. Hence the immortal instruction: “Istanbul, not Constantinople.” OK, that's the history bit done.

Two continents, one city

The first thing I noticed from the airplane window was the Bosphorus Strait. Truth is, it's a bit difficult to miss it. This particular stretch of water divides Europe from Asia, whilst simultaneously making the division seem a bit surreal.

The European side contains the historic heart of the city, including Sultanahmet (the Blue Mosque), Hagia Sophia and the Grand Bazaar. Right now, I’m based in the historic Fatih district of the European side. My first proper expedition on this side was to the nearby Blue Mosque.

Officially, it's the Sultanahmet Mosque, which was built between 1609 and 1616 during the reign of, you've guessed it, Sultan Ahmet (the first). Its nickname comes from the thousands of blue İznik tiles decorating its interior. Its six minarets give it the sort of skyline presence normally reserved for buildings designed by people with absolutely no concept of understatement. Then, I explored Hagia Sophia. This building began life as a Christian church, became a mosque after the Ottoman conquest, later became a museum and then returned to use as a mosque in 2020. Phew! Complicado, meus amigos!

Grand Bazaar

If history is one reason to visit Istanbul, shopping is the reason your suitcase will eventually refuse to close. The Grand Bazaar, as the name suggests, is utterly enormous. This historic market contains countless traders who have their various businesses spread throughout an entire labyrinth of covered streets and passages. There’s a lot of jewellery, including watches and trinkets fashioned from gold, silver and diamonds.

The first rule at the Bazaar is simple enough: Haggle. OK, don't go offering an insultingly low figure and don't start haggling unless you're genuinely interested in buying the item. The other one is: don't be pushed. Walk away if you don't like the price. Just smile and enjoy the theatre. Also, bear in mind that "just looking" can become surprisingly expensive!

The Spice Bazaar is another assault on the senses. Spices, Turkish delight, dried fruit, olives, cheese, coffee and tea compete for attention while vendors happily offer samples.

Food, beer & wine

One cannot be in Istanbul without trying the local fare. There are endless restaurants, cafés, street stalls and tiny lokantas. Fish sandwiches are sold around Eminönü, where the waterfront has long been associated with fishing as well as general trading.

I know this might sound clichéd, but kebabs are inevitable. Döner kebabs are sold alongside pide, meze, grilled fish, stuffed vegetables, baklava, Turkish delight and coffee. Of course, there's tea as well. Turkish tea seems to be less a beverage and more a national pastime. It's really refreshing too. The city's food culture reflects its geography. Asia and the Middle East have spent centuries throwing ingredients into one enormous culinary melting pot.

One cannot possibly mention food without also mentioning wine. Turkish wine may not have the international profile of Portuguese, French or Italian wine. But fear not, Turkey has a long viticultural tradition, and most of the wines made here are pretty decent. The beer is also very nice, especially EFES on draught. As for raki? Well, that is another matter entirely. It arrives clear, becomes cloudy when water is added and possesses the uncanny ability to make perfectly sensible people believe that another glass is an excellent idea. Hmmm?

An evening cruise on the Bosphorus

I particularly wanted to see Istanbul from the water. This, I discovered, is how the city really starts showing off. A Bosphorus cruise is just ridiculously spectacular. As the sun drops, the domes and minarets of the old city mosques begin to glow. Palaces and waterfront mansions line the shore, ferries cross between continents while the great bridges stretch across the water like illuminated ribbons.

Behind us lies Europe, whilst just across the water is Asia. Our cruise included a three-course meal, unlimited beverages (including booze) plus some traditional Turkish dancing which morphed into an impromptu disco - with modern Turkish music. Magical!

The Golden Horn, where some of the river cruises begin, has been central to Istanbul's history. It serves as a natural harbour and an important base for both Eastern Roman and Ottoman fleets. Today, there are bars, restaurants, music and laughter. It's another must-see.

Atmospheric & captivating

So, hopefully I've conveyed a sense that over here in Istanbul, history organically coexists with rapidly encroaching modernity. Mosques somehow exist beside bars, Roman walls beside apartments, ancient bazaars beside designer boutiques and, of course, Europe beside Asia.

This is only my first visit, yet I already appreciate how this great city has inspired so many travellers, writers and conquerors. It isn't simply beautiful, as it's layered. You can stand beneath the Blue Mosque and think about the Ottoman Empire, walk through the Grand Bazaar following traditions that stretch back centuries.

You can look at Hagia Sophia and contemplate the extraordinary succession of civilisations that have occupied this ground. Yes, absolutely, it's chaotic, but it's somehow organised chaos. It's actually quite intoxicating and that, I find, is just part of its charm. This awesome place doesn't ask us to choose between East and West; it simply shrugs it all off and gets on with offering both.

As I've mentioned, this is only my first impression of this great city. As I sit here finishing off this article for you, I can hear the enchanting Islamic call to prayer echoing through the ancient streets of Fathi. It all adds to an already fabulously atmospheric and captivating experience. A case of people doing just as their forefathers have done for thousands of years. Long may it continue. Inshallah.

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